Chiang Mai: Revisited — Missives from Abroad

I first travelled to Thailand in 2013 to volunteer through a wildlife conservation program focused on rehabilitated working elephants. Many things about the experience enchant me to this day—I learned about ethical tourism, responsible volunteering, and the daily drama of matriarchal elephant society. No other travel adventure taught me as much about respecting other cultures as this program.

However, the downside of participating in a program like this is that you’re always part of a big group of people. I will always feel obnoxious as part of a 12-person glob invading a foreign space. You can’t leave a light footprint when you have 24 feet. I appreciated the extra wo-manpower while hacking 10-foot elephant grass with machetes, but I hated filling up an entire cafe with one party.

For this reason, my most cherished and vivid memory from my first trip to Thailand was our free day in Chiang Mai—because I experienced it alone. I didn’t have a plan, pre-arranged transportation, or Thai-speaking guide. I ventured out of Old Town to discover the artsy riverwalk along the Ping River and explored cafes, galleries, and small temples by myself. I bought a watercolor map of the city as decoration, not believing I’d ever get the chance to use it as a navigational tool.

The gorgeous map waited in my shadowbox coffee table in my Madison apartment. Four years later, I unfolded it in Chiang Mai with Louise, and the latent thrill of unfiltered exploration burst out. The anticipation and danger and freedom and beauty of places unknown—this complex feeling is why I love to travel.

Chiang Mai felt familiar, but I knew I only sampled its charm before. It was time to get to know the northern cultural capital of Thailand for myself.

My map of Chiang Mai, though tattered, feels like my own illuminated manuscript.

Artist Nancy Chandler is an expat who moved to Thailand in 1969. The American Women’s Club of Thailand (AWC) commissioned Nancy's first annotated and illustrated map for Sawaddi magazine to show off Bangkok's markets. Her work became popular, and sh… — Artist Nancy Chandler is an expat who moved to Thailand in 1969. The American Women’s Club of Thailand (AWC) commissioned Nancy's first annotated and illustrated map for Sawaddi magazine to show off Bangkok's markets. Her work became popular, and she created other colorful maps of Thailand's cities and attractions, like my map of Chiang Mai from 2013.

Day 1 — Intimate with Inmates

One of the things you must do in Thailand is get a Thai massage. Be warned though, it is not relaxing. Tiny, but powerful, Thai women wrap themselves around your body, dig their elbows into your muscles, pull on your limbs, and whip you around to crack your back. It’s 70% painful, 20% relaxing, and 10% hilarious. Afterwards, you’ll feel like you got hit by the Magic School Bus.

Louise and I went to the Women’s Correctional Facility in Chiang Mai to support their massage vocational training program. Inmates learn the art of Thai massage, earn wages as they work on-site, and then will have skills and money when they leave. We get a very affordable massage while wearing bubble-gum pink outfits.

It’s an added thrill that the person wrapping their arms around your neck may have killed someone.

I didn’t explain to Louise that we were in a jail until we were drinking tea after the massage. She thought the signs mentioning “inmates” were mistranslating “masseuse.”

Day 2 — Reliable River Rats

As is becoming our habit, Louise and I spent an entire day in the city along the river. Perhaps it’s in our DNA from growing up along the Mississippi River, or maybe it’s simply a way to cool off in jungle cities. Or maybe I wanted to return to the only area I remembered from the last time I visited the city.

Our Chiang Mai river day turned into a progressive dinner, with curry at a cafe, craft beer and cheesecake at a book shop art gallery, and a “beer buffet” at a bar with live music. A week into our trip, this was the first time I felt truly relaxed. Louise and I actually talked about our lives, instead of wondering with each other about how much our taxi should cost. I wore my new “Bike Madison” t-shirt, and it sparked a conversation with a gallery owner about how he biked across the United States. At this point in the trip, we hadn’t met many people, and it was comforting to connect.

In Thailand, you typically have three beer options: Chang (Miller Lite equivalent), Singha (like Bud Light), or Leo (closer to PBR). Craft beer is not a thing, except at The Meeting Room Art Cafe. Inspired by icons in Chiang Mai, like the red truck … — In Thailand, you typically have three beer options: Chang (Miller Lite equivalent), Singha (like Bud Light), or Leo (closer to PBR). Craft beer is not a thing, except at The Meeting Room Art Cafe. Inspired by icons in Chiang Mai, like the red truck communal taxis, this beer (technically brewed in Laos, bottled in Thailand) satisfied my snobbery when it comes to alcohol.

Beer buffet = $3 all-you-can drink Chang beer. It tastes better after a few glasses.

Day 3 — A Physical and Spiritual Cleanse

The long and luxurious breakfasts we’d had in Chiang Mai, plus the beer buffet, prompted us to do something good for our body and mind on our third day in Chiang Mai. We started with a 90-minute Thai yoga class. The class was similar to what I’ve experienced in the States, but our Thai teacher told us to “Breathe…and smile!” during every pose. It was a happy class.

For lunch, Louise and I both tried Chiang Mai’s famous dish, Khao Soi. It’s a wheat and crunchy noodle-based soup in a curry broth. It comes with lime, shallots and spicy chilis, and I made the mistake of dumping all the condiments in my bowl.

I do not exaggerate when I say that this was the spiciest food I’ve ever eaten.

Immediately, my throat burned and tears poured out of my eyes. I was sweating and crying so profusely, that the server took pity on me and brought a whole cup of coconut milk to pour into my soup. My desperation overpowered my embarrassment, and I lapped up the milk like a puppy.

Yoga and Khao Soi helped me sweat out my weight in water. Feeling fresh, we headed to Wat Chedi Luang to witness the monks’ Buddhists blessings and interview three teenage novices (see result here). Learning about Buddhism and talking with people central to Thailand’s society was a highlight of the trip.

Navigating new things, with or without a map, is what it’s all about.